Before I went to Australia, I had an image in my head of what life would be like. I could just see it. I’d live by the beach there’d be a few cute guys around, the sun would always be shining and I’d be learning how to be an awesome surfer.
Now most of that was true. I got to live 30 seconds away from the beach, there were a fair amount of cute guys around, I had my curly blonde hair matted with sea water, my tan was coming on pretty well and the sun was almost ALWAYS shining. Even when it wasn’t, I didn’t care because I was living the dream at Mojo Surf camp.
Working there for 6 weeks was the ideal break I needed from Sydney at the time, however there was just one thing that wasn’t quite fitting into the picture. My surfing (if you can even call it that) was diabolical.
You’d think working for 6 weeks at a surf camp would be the perfect opportunity to learn how to surf. And it was. It was the best place I could have learnt. However, me and surfing didn’t get off to the best start.
In my first lesson, I had the misfortune of my bikini top going AWOL. Not cool. Also not cool that by dinner time EVERYONE knew about my unfortunate mishap.
The next time I went out for a surf, the waves were pretty rough. I have no idea what happened but before I knew it, the board was flying towards me and BOOM. It hits me right in the face. Yes it hurt. No I didn’t want it to happen again, so I got out of the water and took comfort on the sand where I knew I was safe.
In Australia there’s sharks. I don’t know if you knew that but there’s lots of sharks. It’s probably quite rare to come across one but I heard rumours around the camp one day that while a girl was out for a lesson, there was a bull shark lurking in the water nearby. I didn’t even need to know if this was really true or not but it was enough to keep me out of the water for a while.
On the rare occasion I did go for a surf, (once for a casual paddle which turned into me properly surfing for the first time, once for a early morning surf as the sun rose and another when a bunch of us were just going out one day) people were shocked. I was one of the few people that hardly ever went out into the water for a surf and all because a few things freaked me out.
My image of my life in Australia never made it to quite the full drawing. But if I am ever out in Australia again, I’d probably head straight back to Mojo Surf, get on a board and not let stupid things put me off. For now though, a 2 hour drive to sunny Scarborough to catch some waves will have to do.
Have you ever been surfing in Australia before? I still think surfing is awesome but I didn’t take to it as well as I thought. How did you find your first surf lesson? Also if you’ve ever surfed with Mojo Surf I’d love to hear from you! 🙂